The Final Piece: RTW

This is my last work for this module.
I enjoyed this module so much, probably as you see from this blog.

In this piece, all sides are completely different shapes.
Because natural world never keep one shape.
Plants grow, clouds blown and water turns gas and solid.
My piece as well.
When a model walks with it, the purple dress edge's shape changes constantly because of the boning.

The Final Piece: Making

When I was development this garment, there were always Miyake and Kawakubo's styles in my mind.
So this work could be influenced by them.
I am happy to sewing.
If I start sewing, I cannot stop until it finishes.

The final piece: Development

Development is the most fun part.
I do many because I love it.
But a problem is that I have to organize all after I did.
Photos were over 200 for this development.

This glue work has a weak point that it becomes loose and soft after many developments.
So, first 10 designs are easy to find astonish shapes because it is still hard but it gradually gets harder.
So, middle of the development, I have to find another shapes from other points like gather, twist, distort, angles...
From the bird (One of my development), I tried putting on pleats. It was seemed to be matching with the purple Lycra.
Anyway, I hope you enjoy to watch this video because that is the most important for me.
That is my happiness.




 

The final piece: Prepare

Tuesday is always fun! The time makes me free from stress.
Anyway, I started preparing my final piece.
I use two techniques that we have learned, glued fabric and pleats.
Because former was my favourite (the shape is very organic and I do not have to sew much), and latter was my encourage.
All notations are in the video.

The final piece: In my mind...

I always do not have any idea for my design.
But I always have a plan what the outcome is going to be.
This is slightly strange explain, but in fact my brain works those two things separated.
So I prepared 3 different fabrics following my plan.
2m purple and 1m silver Lycra, and 1m hard silver organza.
The concept is a super modern architecture. Now a days, Futurism goes more organic shape.
(A few decades ago, future style was more squarish, wasn't it?)
And I admire natural shapes very much. It is not my way that force everything to fit for human.
I totally agree with Miyake, Yoji, and Kawakubo.
So, in my mind, there is no idea for making 'garment'.
Where are sleeves? Where is a neck? That should be very last part.

Anyway, My plan is this.
I am going to present an organic shape with Futuristic style.
The silhouette indicates natural atmosphere such like wind, forest, water and bio, while colours suggest futuristic clean image.  

Future Beauty

A few weeks ago, I went to an exhibition about Japanese Fashion at Barbican Art Gallery.
It was strange feeling because I am Japanese but I had not known about any of them well.
When I was in Japan, I was not interested in fashion at all.
So my fashion study is purely made in Britain.

I watched and sketched them a lot.
Even their designs were fresh for me but I felt something familiar smell.
Flatness, which is one of the Miyake's concept, is very much Japanese thinking.
Our garments are traditionally all flat. No bustle, No corset. Japanese love to remain everything natural. For example, Japanese even represents our garden like a part of mountain and river.

By the way, I put a music which you can feel Japanese thinking.
The music has 'ma' which means 'blank space'.
But actually there is certain time which synchronizes to our body and breath.

The battle of pleats.

I have been crazy for pleats since I learned about it.
Probably, everybody who sew me the moment would think I had gone mad.
But, I just, just wanted to try making pleats.
That was purely my curiosity.
And, I never mind any hard work to make my passion satisfied.
Luckily, I do not think that is hard-work at all.

Anyway, the process was like a war. I failed many times.

Garment deconstruction Extra: Nostalgia 2 [RTW]

This is my extra work.

This time also has nostalgic Victorian taste.

It was totally by coincidence that both deconstruction works were inspired by late 19th Century.

Probably that is from my resist mind to this fabric's character, masculine.

In the era, women had to be like women.

Bustle dresses, corsets, bonnets and petticoats, these kind of things are symbols for feminine.

I like to go opposite direction, perhaps, because of that.

Or, just I wanted to put beautiful nostalgic world into the real war garment.

Mixing opposite things is a two-sides blade.

One will be vivid, or the other will be gray.

I believe this garment cleared as the vivid way.

Because we can see this dress is feminine.

But at the same time, the colour and fabric suggest masculine.

Victorian dress image:

http://www.polyvore.com/victorian_dress_back_image_picture/thing?id=784670

Garment deconstruction 1: Nostalgia [RTW]

So, this is my 'garment deconstruction work.
The concept is 'comme des garcon'. It means 'Like a boy'.

My image was mixing a girl taste and boyish style.

Because that is used be a military jacket, the fabric is thick, hard, tough = masculine.

But I put girly motive as shapes like corsage, skirt and ruffle.

the style idea comes from Victorian childrenswear.

A vintage childrenwear: http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_636.htm

Pleats making!

Create and explore something are my second nature. So I am very happy to do this kind of thing.
I have not done the big paper model but I am going to do it as a part of my final work for this module :-)
Anyway, notations are in the movie, as usual.

Pleats workshop [Presentation]

It was a great opportunity to get understanding about how to make pleats.
 I have been interested in it since I made paper pleats as an extra.
 I wanted to know how to make it with fabric, and make  different patterns.

So, now, I am doing experimentation.
 My aim is using the skill into my final piece.
 I hope it will be success. But still, no idea, as usual.


 

Garment deconstraction: Extra [Making]

I recently had realized that I do not have to up everything. I had been thinking that this blog was like a journal for my work. Probably, I will keep doing like so far because I like to show in my blog. It is much easier to show process as movies.
Anyway, this is a process movie for my extra garment deconstruction. Notations are in there.

Garment deconstruction: Extra [Development]

Creation is never ending. The point is when we stop (or be satisfied) our development. I know two ways for development. One is like this, moving and playing with material and a model (It doesn't have to be human shape) then take photos. The other is drawing or collage with our brain and concept. Both have merit and demerit. Former is easier to understand 360 in 3D but it take time longer and harder to go back to other done designs. Later is quicker and able to choose final design.
So, in this former method, the last design become naturally the final design unless we make again  with seeing photos.

Garment deconstruction 1: Making

This video shows the process of making the dress which used be a military jacket.
I used all parts of it and never cut any pieces except unpick the seams. Those two were my rules. I like to challenge in some rules because these make the process harder and more fun.
Anyway, what the most difficult thing was, the fabric was too hard to do pinning. I prickled my fingers many times...

Glue & cloth: RTW [Shell]

This is an image clip for the extra work. It includes a few photos from sewing process. I understand, there is always a long story before people see the outcome.

Glue & cloth: RTW [Amazon]

This is a mini image clip for the workshop. It is literally 'Ready To Wear'.

FOREVER21 Fashion show.

Probably this post is not relevant to creativity but it was the tutor who gave us a chance to experience a real fashion world.
It was the first time I have joined a proper fashion scene. There were many staff in the backstage. hair dressers, make up artists, models, photographers and more who I don't know the roles. We were dressers. All staff prepared and checked many many times taking a long time for only 20 minutes show. It was getting serious and serious when the show time got closer.
Changing time was super short. It made me a bit nervous but I was lucky.
Because my model was Coco. She is also Japanese, so we could get nice mood immediately.
Anyway, it was great chance for me to feel the real scene. Overall, I really enjoyed!

Observing a jacket.

This is a clip just for an observing of jacket. The notations are in the video.
I wish Iwere Sharlock Holmes.

Stuck, and then... [Development 2]

After we separated our jackets, I had been thinking that it was enough fabric or not. Simply, when we need to cover whole body, we need the right amount of fabric. I mean, if the fabric used be a jacket, there is only the amount fabric for a jacket. Yes, we can use lining as well. Especially, it has nice thick cotton twill, but half lining. I considered either I mix one more jacket from my one or manage to make with it only. I chose latter because it is more hard choice. Limitation will be a good practise. So, at least I got a rough idea that I definitely cannot make a long dress.

Garment deconstruction 1: [Development 1]

After observing the jacket, I started deconstructing it. First, I tried not to leave any parts off and kept as a one connected piece. However, I found it had better to separate some parts because it still remained the jacket shape. But I  also thought I should do it after I hang it on my bicycle...yes, my bicycle.
I got an idea to use my bike as a mold instead of a chair this time. Of course, I had no idea what I could do with it but I wanted to try it. First, I did the development with my friend. Because we thought it may not enough fabric to cover whole body. So we tried some. However, the dress was very heavy and other friend suggested us it would be better to do individually. So we separated our jackets which had been already sewn together.

Fashion illustration

I got an image through the whole process to make this garment. I just wanted to draw it. The concept is Amazons.　Of course it means not the big online shop or the huge jungle. It is a female worrier tribe in Greece myth. They live in the forest and have good archery skill. I thought their life style would suit for this garment taste.

If you wonder what this work is, please see 'here'.

A3 sketch paper / Pencil / Water colour



Garment Deconstruction:1 [Observing]

[Abstract]
Deconstruct a tailored jacket and reconstruct it again as a 'wearable structure'. The key is observe and understand basic structures and creating a new shape from an classic style.



[Observing]
1: Front.
2: Side. Sleeves are curving naturally.
3: Back. Large space for carrying rucksack. Two big pockets on hip.
4: Neck.
5: Neck. Able to close completely with a button and the loop.
6: Neck closing style.
7: The other side of collar has big jig jag-stitch to reinforce the fabric hardness.
8: Front pocket. it says 'Jetted pocket'. Old style.
9,10,11,12,13: Open the pocket. It has a welt.
14: A patch to make it stronger.
15: A back pocket. It has inner button.
16: A bellow type pocket. It makes more space.
17: A unique part. For keeping the jacket style even army carry a heavy bag.
18: Simple tack on the front bodice.
19, 20: Inside out, front & back. back. Half lining.
21,22,23: A big pocket and a small pocket in the left side front bodice.
S1,S2: My sketches.

An image clip for the extra work.

I tried making a different taste video clip this time with Windows Movie Maker. I usually use Windows Live Movie Maker because it is easier and quicker compiling. However, it cannot set fine detail like a tenth of 1 second. That is probably a cause of becoming boring video. Anyway, this is my extra work, so I did as I want to do with practising PhotoshopCS5. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with it yet. Moreover,I have not used all photoshop functions so much. So I tried playing with them.

By the way, I should talk about this piece's concept. It is easy. I just tried to go opposite vector from last one. Organic to artificial, natural colour to man made material. I also chose music carefully to be different taste. I hope you can understand what I tried to describe, and enjoy!



 

Extra work -seek different methods-

We tried making another one with different concept. This time, we used silver thin Lycra as the material and imaged more artificial shape. We looked for something more detailed molds like egg packages and folded card boards.
First, we made some holes and slits on the fabric before it soaks with glue. We expected that those make something interesting shapes or effects after dried the tensed fabric up.
Then we covered the wrapped chairs with it and tried to appear the molds shapes on it with pins and sewing.
We did not put any colour this time because the mat taste suited our image.
We did all process very quickly, perhaps twice as fast as before. So, we could the last work development in the afternoon.

Glue & cloth:2 Development [Notes]

Please refer the video on yesterday.

0:05 -Shape like sea-life, coral or sea horse. Front weight point is top but back weight is bottom.
0:26 -The right shoulder is remarkable.
0:48 -A bit too stringy and crowded.
1:03 -The weight goes to left dynamically in back shape. Start caring about negative space.
1:25 -Unique collar. Front shape from middle of chest to left side skirt has water fall like stream.
1:47 -Collar like a jacket one. Bustled skirt.
2:08 -The whole weight goes to back like Geisha's wide belt.
2:26 -Consider shape more like a garment. Style and concept is almost same as 2:08.
2:45 -A neck holder dress for beach.
3:08 -Different approach. Top is simple and bottom is volumed which reminds dress shape.
3:25 -Huge blank  in the middle of front and back boldly.
3:44 -Our favourite. We found this design by chance after we finished development. We were cutting each string parts then realized there were more new shape.

Develop! Develop!

Tuesday is always busy. Our group did workshop room induction this morning. I had not used industrial sewing machine before. It looks a bit scary but actually it's fun. Just, setting thread is slightly hard. Then Me and Sai had already decided what we gonna do today. First, we make a new one, then while it leaves for drying, we do development for last week's work.

I am putting on the development documentary today. I will talk about the new model another time. Anyway, we manipulated the last week one very quick and many. We changed the shape within 5minutes each. Just do very quick, without thinking any, just believing our creative sense. So, luckily we got 12 designs in 90 minutes including photo time.
I am going to explain each design points tomorrow because there is not enough space any more. Sometimes, 'Less than 160 words rule' is not enough for me, especially when I want to explain details...



So, now we can see the difference from the first shape which is in 14th October, and personary this development ones are seemed to be better. Especially the last one, we were satisfied very much.

Pleats please?_

This is a paper pleats which I made. The structure is not so hard but making is slightly complicating and take a time. I will be able to make another shape pleats with same method. I am going to try later.

By the way, this shape is very architectural. Why? Because the lines make three dimensional structures with very simple appearance. Moreover continuing same shapes reminds layered city view. A lot of  corners are also like roofs and buildings.

It means this kind of structure is very fascinating for me as same as architecture, like below.
 

If we can turn our imagination into large scale, the opposite way is also same. I would like to be able to do that smoothly. From a microbe to a dress, Big Ben to trousers.


Glue & cloth:1 [Cut out and modifying]

To be honest, I am not satisfied about this outcome. I might be able to do something more. We didn't try other shapes so much because when we put it on the mannequin, it was almost looks like a dress. Moreover, it was seemed to be "correct" position as a dress. However, that kind of thinking is not good for creating because there should not exist any correct shapes. I may try modifying again if my partner allowed.
Anyway, positive side is I love this colour. natural plain with blue and green remind us nature world. Sky and forest, lake and field. I imaged soft organic shapes for this dress.

Glue & cloth...and Hussein Chalayan

This exhibition trip is from module 1501. The work is 2009 S/S by Hussein Chalayan.
[Similarity: Mold and prominent shapes]
Even if we do not know how he made this mold and where the original idea come from, we found similar taste from our experimentation which we did yesterday. His work is very organic shape but also has a hint of super modern architecture like NOX.
Anyway, the point is why do his design and our model have similality. The main reason is the shape. Mild and sharp streamlines express nature shapes like mineral growing, wind line and mountains. Once Walt Disney said that there is no perfect straight line in nature world. (That is why his charactors are drawn by curved lines.) As these reasons, his design has man-made organic shape. If we follow this logic, our model will also be a natural silhouette after we cut it out and hung on a mannequin. I expected in the middle of making.

[B-SIDE] Hussein Chalayan
http://www.springproject.co.uk/



Glue & cloth:1 [Prepare - making]

[Abstract]
Making a model with glued jersey fabric on a wrapped chair. After dried it up, cut it out and modify as a garment.
[Aim] Seek creative silhouettes without any expectations. Also get understanding reasons why the model became the shape and take notes the process.

[Process]
1. Bring some objects from dumps and tried making more interesting mold.
2.Wrapping all. Some edges that we want to emphasise cut wrap slightly and remained the shape more clearly.
3.Put clothes which are soaking with PVA glue and water on the chair without thinking while drip coloured glue randomly.
4. After layered enough, sew some points to make large flat spaces and gather effects.
5. Colouring and gluing again for making it more vivid and clear shape.

Paper folding workshop:2 [Extra]

This is an extra work for paper folding workshop. The size is 1m x 1m. I didn't set any rules until 3D shape making stage. I just explored some logical patterns start from tiled squares to circle tessellation without think anything. After I was satisfied those experiments, I scored middle and hanged it on a mannequin. I made a rule that I can only cut & fold on black lines and circles' edges. This rule actually did success. Because even if I chose a cutting point  randomly, there have been still the rules alive, so the outcome keeps simple and well organized shape what I always prefer.
I hope you enjoy this video in relax mood with a nice cuppa...because it's a bit long!

Paper folding workshop:2 [Make a bigger model!]

The task is making a big model from one of previous weeks'. The aim is how we can modify into human size (=planning as a garment) it. We are allowed to break rules we made last week.
I chose no.13 (please see 08/Oct. post) because it was seemed to be easier to turn into a dress. I had a roughly idea before I start. So I simply enlarged no.13 with calculation (It was 8 times bigger than the original model). After I made all parts, connected exactly same as no.13. When I put the big maquette onto a mannequin, I realized I needed to make a hole for neck. Like that, I kept changing it gradually.

Problem: Ugly. Less impressions around neck and back (see 0:44 & 0:50)
Solution: Extra squashed paper adding and labeled my name on the back.

Extra paper folding

Refer to the book which tutors recommended, I explored the method again.
This time is slightly more mathematical but more free.

[My rule]
-All basic length are decided by a number which comes from divided 150.
-Fold must be in half.
-All shapes must be point symmetry.

It is like this picture.

Then make 3D models with these.
This time, I tried to avoid any binding items as possible and used hinges instead of.




The rule for this process was still 'keep point symmetory' but it got becoming impossible one after another.
So I gave up the it and started looking for more sophisticated silhouettes.

Sophia, V (2003). Folding Architecture.The Netherlands. BIS Publishers

Paper fold workshop:1 [2D to 3D]

The next step was to make those shapes to three dimensional designs. Fold, cut and role, could be there are more ways to do.





Personally, I like number 3 and 14. 3 is simple but sophisticated, 14 made me surprised because I found a different angle which is much better.

Paper fold workshop:1 [Rules and 2D]

First, I am not going to tell a lot. Because showing my pieces are much easier to understand. I also don't like to put many photos in a same post. It makes the post heavy. No one likes waiting for pictures. But, I love to show many pieces.
So I made a slide-show instead of. If it works better, I will keep posting with same method.

[Rule Based Art]
My rules: -Starting point is a circle
               -Circles must be same size
               -Each circles must have at least one line.
               -Triangles will be able to make from the lines as one of the side.
               -New circles must connect one of triangles' corners.




This video shows a process of create a design follows the rules.
I didn't put any sound to make it lighter. I am sorry if you've got bored.

Introduction -Make my own place-

I am making this blog and it is going to be my third one. Now, I am trying to put all of three into one web page because it will be easier to administer them. It was required new skills, but I am enjoying learning them very much. I believe that any kind of IT skills could help me in future. Better than Nothing.

So, that is why I have already spent for 38 hours in front of my laptop.

By the way, this red stamp like logo is my logo which I made for a project last year. The design comes from my name, 'R U me?'. Did you find it? I am going to put it in my blog.

Anyway, I am enjoying, that's the most important thing.